Benevento has a reputation for being very elegant and a very different city from the others in Campania.
I’m not really sure what does it means ‘ an elegant town’, therefore I’m not sure whether Benevento is elegant, but in my opinion is very Campanian. Actually it’s very neapolitan, I felt as if I was in Naples’ suburbs, especially since the distance between both cities is just 90 km.
After the Romans took control of the city, the city’s name, derived from the word “Maleventum” (meaning “evil wind” or “bad events”), was changed to “Beneventum”, meaning “good wind”.
The legend of Benevento
On the banks of the Sabato River stood a walnut tree, which was the place where witches from across Europe came to gather. With wizards coming there as well they danced under the tree for their Sabbats, cast evil spells, and then flew off again.
But not only witches and wizards liked the walnut tree. Also, the Romans, and later, the Lombards believed that it was a great place to practice pagan rituals.
According to the legend, the Langobard soldiers wanted to get extra/animal power, so they would would hang goat (or snake) skins from the walnut tree and, spike them before consumption. The rituals lasted several days and Langobards lighted bonfires at night and enjoyed wine, women, and dancing.
What to see in Benevento.
Wandering around the historic center, it is hard not to notice the Arch of Trajan. (It was built between 114 and 166 BC from limestone and covered with slabs of Parian marble). This 15-meter-high and 8-meter-wide structure was constructed to commemorate the completion of the Via Trajana and also to remind people of the emperor’s prestige and kindness.
The Arch of Trajan is the best preserved Roman arch in Italy.
The Roman amphitheater (ticket required, costsed 2 euros wneh I visited it) built in the 2nd century BC, did not begin operating until between 125 and 128 AD.
The impressive structure, approximately 98 meters long, was built from concrete, limestone blocks, and bricks. The steps are covered with marble. Still in excellent condition, the amphitheater could accommodate 15,000 people.
The Church of St. Sophia (Santa Sofia) was closed. This is another funny thing in Italy, which is a Catholic country. Churches – public buildings are usually closed. Mauro claims that it is because of potential thefts. I’m far from any religion, but I sometimes like to visit churches, especially since many are masterpieces of architectural art. The Church of St. Sophia is supposedly worth seeing if only because of the exhibition of 16th and 17th-century canvases.
The Sannio Museum, located in the cloisters of the Church of St. Sophia, is divided into 4 sections; they present works and findings from the field of archaeology, art and history of the Middle Ages. The last section is in the castle of Benevento.
And finally, the castle Rocca dei Rettori located at the highest point of the old town. It consists, as castles usually do, of a tower and a small palace added to it. From the moment it was built, the castle was used by local rulers, then by papal governors, and then it shared the fate of many castles – i.e. it became a prison. It now houses the offices of the Province of Benevento and the historical section of the Sannio Museum.
Benevento is known for its local produce, including olives, wine, fruits, and nuts, and is also home to the famous Strega liqueur.
After lunch at a Neapolitan restaurant, we drove to Pouzzoli.
Is it worth visiting Benevento?
Well, in my opinion not necessarily; Benevento is like a still-inhabited open-air museum. Decent enough, but I wasn’t delighted. I liked the amphitheater; its surroundings not so much, as the Roman relic is surrounded by hideous 70s blocks of flats. A short visit is OK, most of the monuments (if open) can be visited in 3-4 hours, staying there longer – not necessarily. Benevento is also not a particularly good base for exploring Campania, there is also nothing interesting there for nature lovers and e.g. hiking, there are probably 2 or 3 routes there. But that’s my opinion; you may consider Benevento a great place, because fortunately, everyone has and should have different tastes.
