Path of the Lemons or Sentiero dei Limoni, was not a particularly popular place among holidaymakers on the Amalfi Coast just a few years ago. As I recently had the opportunity to see, this is changing – there were quite a few people on the route.
Costiera Amalfitana is one of the most picturesque places in Italy, offering stunning seaside cliffs and breathtaking landscapes. No wonder it attracts millions of tourists every year. Positano and Amalfi are cities where you can spend your time lazily, sitting on the beach, walking along colourful streets, sipping coffee for hours, or eating lemon sorbet.
But Costiera Amalfitana is not just a place for the shiftless: those who are more active will find many attractions there, such as a multitude of trails in the surrounding mountains, from difficult to completely easy.
The Path of the Lemons – what is it?
One of these easy ones is the Path of the Lemons, a wildly scenic road connecting two small and pretty seaside towns – Minori and Maiori. This lovely path between the towns runs through fragrant lemon groves and offers great views of the coast. The Path of the Lemons is nothing more than an ancient road that the locals used to transport lemons from their hillside terraces to the coast.
Along the way, you can also meet and pet ‘dangerous’ guard dogs and cats eager for cuddles. I would like to say that if you are looking for excitement away from the crowds, this is the perfect hike. But as I mentioned above, there are already quite a few people there.
How to get to Path of the Lemons from Minori.
Minori, if you are staying elsewhere, is easily reached by SITA bus from Amalfi, Salerno or Positano. The journey from Amalfi to Minori takes about 15 minutes, and from Salerno about an hour.
From spring to early autumn, you can also take a ferry from Salerno and Amalfi to Minori. Salerno – Minori is a 35-minute cruise with a fresh sea breeze and views of the coast. You can get from Amalfi to Minori in 10 minutes.
A car or scooter is definitely the most convenient way to get around Italy, but… parking. In Minori, there are many paid parking spaces on the main road; from spring on, you have to do a bit of thinking to find a free one. You can park, as many Italians do, outside the city, on a side road and keep to the main street to walk to the town.
The Path of the Lemons starts in Minori in the historic centre, near the church of San Michele Arcangelo in the village of Torre; Minori is therefore a good place to start your walk. On the wall of the house, at the beginning of the route, there are signs ‘Sentiero dei Limoni’, so it is easy to find.
Path of the Lemons – what to expect:
The trail is about 2.5 km long and takes between 40 minutes and an hour to walk. Of course, you can spend much longer on it, especially if you start making friends with the dogs and cats that appear on the road waiting to be petted.
And if you keep taking pictures, as the views from Path of the Lemons are worth taking pictures of. The path is easy, apart from a lot of stairs uphill, so if you have problems with your knees or don’t like walking, the path may be a bit difficult. The end of the route involves going down the stairs.
And what awaits you on the way? Apart from the friendly four-legged friends mentioned above, there are spectacular views of the coast from the top. In addition, you wander among lemon groves, most of which have belonged to local farmers for generations. The Amalfi Coast is famous for producing Sfusato Amalfitano lemons, which are larger and more fragrant than typical lemons and are used to make limoncello and everything ‘lemony’ that you can buy in souvenir shops.
If you fancy a coffee, water, or limoncello along the way, some of the owners of the houses invite you to take advantage of their hospitality, not for free of course. How much they charge for the coffee or water – have no idea, but it’s another proof of the growing popularity of the old passage between the two towns. A few years ago, this wasn’t the case.
Soientiero dei Limoni ends in Maiori, which has a larger beach, a lively promenade, and more restaurants and shops. It’s a great place to relax after a hike, grab some lunch, or treat yourself to an ice cream by the sea. You can return to Minori via the top or via the bottom, keeping to the main road.
When to go on the trail:
In my opinion, in spring, from March to May, although even in April the lemon trees may be covered with netting (cold nights), the trail is not so ‘yellow’. Another good option is early autumn, i.e., September-October. Spring and autumn are times when the temperatures are not crazy high, and there are generally fewer people. In summer, it is best to go in the morning, because firstly, tourists are sleeping or eating breakfast, and secondly, it is not hot.
Practically about Path of the Lemons :
– You can start the trail in Minori or Manori. It’s better though to choose Minori because the ascent is not as steep as in Manori.
– Wear comfortable shoes
– Take water because there is no water on the trail unless you buy it from the locals
– Take your time, enjoy the yellow of the lemons, make friends with the cats and dogs, and enjoy the views
– Even if you prefer beaches, the picturesque Path of the Lemons is absolutely worth the walk.
Have you been there? Let me know your impressions in the comments below!