Pulsano Abbey in Gargano is a place that may appeal to lovers of short hikes with a historical background. If you also like medieval churches, you should definitely visit the Abbey of Our Lady of Pulsano (Abbazia di Santa Maria di Pulsano).
I know, there are thousands of churches in Italy, so why bother with this one? Especially since the monastery in Pulsano is not particularly beautiful, but in my opinion, it’s worth attention. I absolutely love medieval buildings, and therefore churches from this era, even though I’m an atheist. I really like these stone, simple buildings, often lit inside with beautiful natural light.
The Pulsano Abbey in Gargano is interesting not only as a building, but also, or maybe mainly, because of the long past and hermitages hidden in the mountains surrounding it.
Pulsano Abbey – a bit of history:
Medieval monks had many strange customs, such as living in hermitages or building monasteries and churches on the ruins of pagan temples. The last one was for a symbolic and practical reason. This was also the case with Pulsano Abbey in Gargano, built in the 6th century. The church replaced a temple dedicated to Calchas, the son of Thestor, who was a priest of Apollo.
In the 10th century, the Saracens visited the abbey; after their visit, the monastery was reduced to ruins. Two hundred years later, the faithful pilgrims on the Gargano rebuilt Pulsano Abbey, and for centuries, the monastery was a place of religious worship. In 1969, the monks abandoned the monastery, which, if not for the people, would probably have shared the fate of many abandoned buildings in Italy.
A group of volunteers from Manfredonia decided to save the abbey by bringing the religious community back to life and rebuilding what was left of it. Volunteers began work in 1991; 6 years later, the abbey was opened and attracted many believers. They created a new Catholic-Orthodox monastic community in Gargano, which is self-sufficient thanks to animal husbandry and vegetable growing. The members of the group also created a modern library, where they store about 20,000 old religious texts.
In Pulsano Abbey, those open to new experiences can feel like monks. The community allows those willing to stay for a few (or a dozen) days in the monastery. And you don’t necessarily have to be religious. Many people would give themselves to be chopped into pieces for the opportunity to cut themselves off from the world for a while, to calm down and slow down the pace of life. In addition to spiritual renewal, you can also learn new skills there, as the monks organize, among other things, iconography workshops.
The church itself is small, but beautiful and located in quite decent natural surroundings. From the mountains, in good weather, you can see the Gargano and the Gulf of Manfredonia. Around the monastery, in the rock walls, there are hermitages carved by crazy medieval hermits. I imagine them hanging on strings, tapping the rock with hammers to carve out a cave in which they lived. So far, 24 ‘handmade’ caves have been recorded; several of them, connected by a network of paths and trails, can be reached on your own. The rest is better to visit with an experienced guide.
How to get to Pulsano Abbey of Our Lady?
The abbey is about 9 km from Monte Sant’Angelo; from the town, follow the signs for Pulsano. There is only one road to Pulsano Abbey, so you really have to try hard to get lost. Many people cycle to the monastery; it is a good route if you’re an experienced cyclists or you want to work on your form. You won’t meet many cars on the way, so apart from the long uphill climb, cycling is not an extreme option. You can also park your car on the road 3-4 km from Pulsano and walk.
A large metal gate is a sign that you’ve reached your destination. It’s opened by a large red button; if the button is broken, open it manually. I’ve been to Pulsano by car 2 or 3 times, and once I’ve also walked the old pilgrims’ trail. The route is OK, with nice views, but it is very difficult to find the beginning. Apart from that, it starts in a private field and for some time goes through private land (hard to guess whether itis legally private), then through a forest with crazy cows running around, leaving patties everywhere. After passing the mad cows, the route goes through the mountains.
Practically about Pulsano Abbey in Gargano:
– If you decide to visit the abbey in the summer, avoid the hottest time of day, as there is no shade.Take a hat, sunscreen, and plenty of water.
– If you want to visit the hermitages, wear comfortable shoes, preferably hiking shoes, and long trousers.
– Visiting only the abbey does not require hiking shoes.
Is Pulsano in Gargano a place you would like to see? Let me know in the comments.
